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I was still missing Val Graveglia. It was Bart who brought me there and
put me in contact with its people. I’m always grateful to Bart because of
that and I smile within myself considering how surprising it is to discover a
hidden corner of the Italian province through an American.
But the hillsides of Leivi, covered in olive groves and overlooking
Chiavari and the sea, is a dreamland in Bart’s imagination, a corner of
heaven where the people maintain the culture and traditions of Liguria.
Unfortunately Bart had to review some of his expectations since I arrived
on the scene, although meeting me was a happy event in his life, privately
speaking.
“Why” - he starts wondering for example - “when I or my daughters come
to Italy, we are obliged to visit all the different relatives, stepping into
every house as in a procession, and eating huge portions of ravioli, just not
to disappoint any of them?”
“Why am I supposed to keep and use an old hoe just because it belonged to
great grandfather and nobody now dares to throw it away, or replace it with
a new one?”
“Why am I supposed to build up something not regularly permitted in my
property, skip the law, and wait until I can legalize it later on?”
“Why the answers I get from the authorities in Italy are always uncertain
and lame – we’ll see what we can do for you - instead of a clear yes or
no?”
“Why if you want to order a non available item in a store they make you
wait weeks before providing the item to you?”
“Why Italian drivers think to be God on Earth when on the road? Why they
don’t respect the traffic lanes, or they are not courteous with a car in front
of them which asks for space to park, or they allow themselves to leave the
car wherever they like although forbidden?”
These are aspects of the Italian style of life that Bart can’t understand. I
don’t blame him. No point in suggesting to Bart to become more tolerant
himself, he gets more annoyed instead. Again, I can’t blame him.
As a consequence of all that, Bart’s view of Leivi and Italy is somewhat
dented, and his way to escape into his cave is connect to the internet and
read the New York Times . When he reads something from the States he
feels once again aware that Italy is not all that different.
Bart’s new house is situated on a hillside overlooking Chiavari and the
Gulf of Tigullio. Nestled in the olive groves it is separated from Leivi by
the village of Maxena. The location is noted by it manicured front lawn